Thursday, February 14, 2008

Alfred Portale's Gotham


Alfred Portale's Gotham has been a NYC staple since the 80s. Already a legend in the culiary world, he won the James Beard award for Outstanding Chef in 06' and the calibre of chef that has worked under him over years @ Gotham are equally impressive, Tom Valenti(Cesca, Ouest), Scott Bryan(Veritas) and Tom Colicchio(Gramercy Tavern, Craft Empire) to name a few. I decided to book it for our V day dinner, only a day early. Valentine's Day is a bittersweet, love-hate kind of holiday for restaurants. They are almost sure to be packed and people buy lots of champagne/wine and don't mind paying the "special" prix fixe menu. But it takes some wrangling to convert the entire restaurant into a room full of deuces ('table for two') and keep to the reservations time-table as lovebirds tend to linger. So to avoid the crowd and sometimes unreasonable Valentine's day prix fixe menu, we celebrated on the 13th and I will cook on the 14th.


Gotham has the look of a power dining scene, high ceilings, open space and dozens of attentive staff. Service is impeccable from the moment you walked in. There is always someone pulling your chair, folding your napkin, pouring your wine and refilling your bread plate. There is no tasting menu for dinner, so we went for a seafood-centric dinner. Sommelier recommended a fruity German Riesling which was a tad too sweet for me, but it is about pleasing my Valentine today aint it? :)

I started with the Yellowfin Tuna tartar (my weekly mercury intake :P) and Connie the Black Bass ceviche. Portale, lives up to his "vertical food" name as most of his dishes are stacked high and beautifully presented. Two very good, even great starters. I followed with a secondo of Alaskan crab risotto, Connie a Curried pumpkin bisque. My risotto is top notch. Mixed in with huge lumps of crab meat are prosiutto di Parma, butternut squash and some citris slices. This lead to Connie's comment, " Why do you always order the better dishes?" followed by obligatory switching of our plates, although reluctantly on my end. By the time entree comes, we were well on our way to being full, maybe it was also because of the bread guy keep circling and make sure our bread plate is not empty. Connie's Miso Glazed Cod trumped my Porcini crusted Halibut. My halibut was really good, with porcini, caramelized cauliflower in a white verjus emulsion. Very creamy and tasty. But the Miso glazed Cod was a notch above, even better than the Nobu and Morimoto version.

Dessert was not the first thing on my mind after our third course, but I was told to not miss the Gotham Chocolate Cake. It was indeed quite amazing. Flourless, served with some Banana Sorbet. Later with the check, came a flyer kindly suggests that the whole Gotham Chocolate cake can be ordered for $82 each. Whoa?!


Overall, the food was great, everything was done exquisitely, but nothing out of ordinary. Service is top notch. Decor is very NY power dining like, little outdated, but has its romantic touches. 8.5/10 in my book! Oh, and bring your platinum card. The bill is as grand as the food and decor.

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